In this post, I’m going to share a classic three-week itinerary for a trip to Peru. Quick overview: Lima, Paracas, Huacachina, Arequipa, Cusco, the Salkantay Trek, Machu Picchu, and the Amazon.
Wow, it feels like forever since I last wrote a blog post. Definitely years, though I did update a few (like Thailand!). The truth is, I just didn’t feel much like writing, for a bunch of different reasons I could go into… but they have nothing to do with this post. So! To get back into the game, I’m going to tell you about our (yes, we are in two now!) trip to Peru last September.
I’ll walk you through the places we visited, step by step. I’ll keep it short and to the point, no long explanations about how to hike something or catch a bus (the internet has plenty of that). I’ll share what I recommend, and also give you my honest take on each place, and on the country in general.
Let’s start with the Capital
GASTRONOMY IN PERU
Actually, let’s get this one off our shoulders. Before going to Peru, everyone kept telling us how amazing the food is. Apparently, it’s one of the gastronomic hubs of the world, with Lima right at the centre of it all. We love trying new foods and restaurants—especially things that feel exotic to European taste buds—so we were really excited.
So… is the food scene in Peru as great as they say?
Well, in the end, we can’t really say. On one hand, we tried plenty of restaurants offering local cuisine, which is great, but a bit monotonous. After the third dinner out, you’ve pretty much seen all the menu options, mostly a version of cebiche, chaufa, and lomo saltado. Don’t get me wrong? I could live off those for months, and I genuinely love them, but variety is limited. Some restaurants have better quality than others, and you’ll find some small twists or regional dishes here and there. In Cusco, for example, you can try guinea pig or alpaca if you eat meat. But if you’re vegan or vegetarian, the options are usually not that exciting, and often not really Peruvian.
That said, there are only two places I’d personally recommend from our three-week trip, both in Lima, both mentioned in many guides, and both reasonably priced: El Mercado and Isolina.
On the other hand, Peru isn’t just about traditional food. It’s also known for its high-end gastronomy, there are lots of renowned restaurants, including Michelin-starred ones, and even the number one restaurant in the world. In this sense, Lima is definitely a global food destination. Many of these restaurants use unique, locally sourced ingredients in creative ways.
We didn’t try any of them during our trip, and to be honest, that’s probably one regret we have. They are pricey, sure, but if you’re into food, this is an experience that’s probably worth the financial effort. It is not like you are going to Peru every year, so it is a now or never opportunity.
LIMA: FAIR AND SQUARE
There are three main areas worth visiting in Lima, plus one long scenic walk. But when it comes to choosing where to stay, there’s really only one winner: Barranco. It’s the most fun and laid-back neighborhood, with lots of restaurants, bars, and a great atmosphere. If you’re into Pisco Sours and want to visit a bar where locals still hang out, cheap drinks, good vibes, head to Juanito Barranco, right in front of the municipal park. That said, the area is full of options for food and drinks, so you won’t struggle to find something you like.
Another popular place to stay is Miraflores, which is more of a modern, polished part of town. To be honest, I didn’t find it particularly interesting, but it is a convenient base if you plan to spend a few hours walking the Malecón de Miraflores. This is a stunning cliffside path that runs along the edge of the city, with sweeping views of the ocean. The walk takes you through small parks and green spaces, and now and then you’ll find staircases leading down to the beach, where surfers are often out catching waves.
The historic centre is also worth a visit for half a day. I wouldn’t recommend staying there, but it’s easy enough to reach by taxi, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can try local public transport like we did. It was a bit confusing, especially figuring out how to buy the tickets, but that was part of the fun. Once there, you can just stroll around, pop into a few museums, or visit the cathedral, depending on how hungry for culture you’re feeling.
One final place to mention: the Huaca Pucllana site museum in Miraflores. It’s a bit off the usual tourist radar, but it gives a fascinating glimpse into a pre-Inca civilization. We visited at the end of the day and did the night tour, which lasted a couple of hours and was well worth it.
Did we like Lima? Yes, all in all two or three days in Lima will be worth your time!
PARACAS: THE GREATEST SURPRISE
About four hours south of Lima by bus lies the small coastal town of Paracas, our second stop in Peru. It’s a quiet village, mostly known as the jumping-off point for two unforgettable activities, both of which we highly recommend.
The first is a visit to the Ballestas Islands, which you can do in the morning on a boat tour that lasts a couple of hours. These islands are often called the “Galápagos of Peru”, which is a bit of a stretch, but they’re still well worth the trip. We had a smooth ride out to sea, with a mix of warm sun, cold ocean winds, and amazing colours all around us. The rocky formations of these protected islands are stunning. They’re tiny and can only be observed from the boat, which circles around and weaves between them. The islands are home to an incredible number of sea birds, a few families of sea lions, and even some penguins. We spotted two Magellanic penguins, though we were told you might see more in different seasons. Apparently, dolphins and other marine mammals also show up sometimes, truth or tourist legend? Who knows.
A surprising highlight of the boat ride was seeing one of the mysterious geoglyphs carved into the side of a nearby dune, just outside Paracas port. These are part of the same tradition as the more famous Nazca Lines, a UNESCO World Heritage site located deeper inland. These massive figures, drawn in the sand centuries ago, are one of the great mysteries of Peru. We hadn’t planned to visit the Nazca desert, so we were thrilled to catch a glimpse of a similar line here from the water. It turns out some of these motifs were also made in the Paracas area, though they haven’t withstood time quite as well.
The other unmissable activity in Paracas is visiting the Paracas National Reserve, a breathtaking desert landscape that meets the ocean. The area is dotted with sand dunes, flat plains, and steep cliffs, and it’s home to vultures, sea birds, and even pink flamingos.
Most people visit the park with a guided minibus tour, but we decided to explore it by bike, in the middle of the day, no less. It was hot, but we brought plenty of water and a lot of enthusiasm. The place felt magical. We only had time to explore about half of the park, as we were catching a ride to our next destination that afternoon, but it’s definitely worth spending more time there if you can.
Paracas is definitely on the tourist trail, but it ended up being one of our favourite stops. In a single day, you can visit both the Ballestas Islands and the National Reserve, and then in the evening enjoy a beachfront drink while watching the sunset.
HUACACHINA: QUITE DISAPPOINTING BUT…
From Paracas, a two-hour taxi ride will take you to Huacachina, an oasis near the city of Ica. Yep, this is an actual oasis in the middle of the desert, surrounded by towering sand dunes. Sounds romantic, right? You might picture yourself sleeping in a tent under a blanket of stars, with only the wind and the silence for company. Well… not quite. Trust me, this place is far from that desert fantasy.
Huacachina is a chaotic and noisy backpacker hub, packed with tourists, many of them young and ready to party. Around the little pond (where the water source is) rise hotels, bars, restaurants—plenty of cement, all built for tourism, both local and international. Honestly, it’s not a pretty place. The quality of the accommodations and food is generally quite low. And from the moment you arrive, you’ll be approached by people selling you tours—mostly to ride the dunes in dune buggies and quads. You don’t get to drive yourself, by the way. These rides are the main attraction and seem to be the reason for the big crowds of boys and girls chasing a taste of (slightly fake) adrenaline.
There are also other tours on offer, like pisco and wine tastings at nearby wineries around Ica. You can even book flights over the Nazca Lines from Ica. Since we had some time to kill, we went for the wine tasting tour, which also includes visits to a few local sites. It wa fine, nothing special.
All in all, we didn’t enjoy the vibe or the place that much. But nature does come to the rescue. Around sunset, you can climb one of the massive dunes, about 300 metres high. It takes roughly an hour to reach the top (you have to pay to access the desert by foot, naturally). But once you’re up there, the view is incredible. The sun slowly sinks into the dunes, turning from golden to orange to deep red. It’s one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen. In fact, I’d say it’s worth going to Huacachina just for that moment.
It’s just a shame that, even from up there, you can still spot those tiny ants on wheels zipping through the desert.
AREQUIPA: STOP AND GO
We caught a night bus from Ica, and after a 13 hour ride and a surprisingly decent night’s sleep, we arrived in Arequipa, Peru’s second-largest city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s known as the White City, and as soon as you start walking through the white cobbled streets of the historic centre, surrounded by beautiful colonial architecture, it’s easy to see why.
We didn’t stay the night. We arrived early in the morning and caught another night bus that same evening. But even just wandering around for the day gave us a solid feel for Arequipa’s vibe: a city blessed with near-perfect weather, framed by volcanoes and canyons for the more adventurous, with its own gastronomy and plenty of museums and cultural spots to explore. I especially recommend visiting the Santa Catalina Monastery.
Is it worth visiting Arequipa? Yes, definitely. Would we have stayed longer than one day? Hmm, probably not. Unless you plan to visit the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve nearby, one day is enough to soak up the atmosphere. The real adventure, if you ask me, lies higher up in the Andes.
If you’re curious: we used Cruz del Sur for our night bus rides. After a fair bit of research, it was clearly the most reliable option in Peru.
CUSCO: GATEWAY TO EVERYTHING
After another 10-hour night bus ride, this time less comfortable, full of twists and turns as we climbed in altitude, we arrived in Cusco very early in the morning, and quite tired. Yet, there we were, at 3,800 m. above sea level, in the city that is truly the gateway to everything in Peru.
It’s hard to describe Cusco in just a few paragraphs. In many ways, it feels like the true centre of Peru. Despite the country’s natural beauty, I had the impression that without this town, and everything it represents, Peru wouldn’t attract nearly as many visitors as it does today.
Cusco is the heart of Peru’s cultural heritage. From pre-Inca civilizations to the Inca Empire, through the horrors of colonialism and the long road to rediscovery of national identity, it all converges here. Nowhere else does the blend of Indigenous, Hispanic, and Western cultures appear so vividly.
The town itself is beautiful. Strolling through its narrow streets, especially climbing to the various viewpoints, is a must. It’s also a useful way to acclimatize to the altitude, especially if you’re planning to trek in the Andes, as we were. I recommend visiting as many museums and historical sites as you can manage, but at the very least, go see the main cathedral with a local guide. The insights they’ll offer into the history of the city, and the country, are worth it. Otherwise, in Cusco there’s no shortage of good restaurants, coffee spots, shops, parades, and general buzz to keep you occupied.
That said, Cusco is completely overrun by mass tourism. This makes it also an economic hub for the region, and possibly the country. But it also makes it a bit of circus as everything is for money: services, restaurants, shops, street vendors, tourist guides, tourist agencies, you name it. It is a non stop calling you out to try and squeeze some money out of you. None of this is unique to Cusco, of course. But for some reason, I was disappointed. I had a more romantic idea in mind: a quiet town hidden in the Andes, known only to the adventurous. How naive! That dream evaporated within half a day, replaced by a sort of one stop shop approach to tourism, a reality of backpacker hostels, hipster coffee shops, high-end restaurants, luxury alpaca wool stores, and a constant stream of people. Everyone finds their own version of happiness in Cusco, apparently.
All these different people, from all over the world, come here with one shared goal: to visit Machu Picchu. That single site is the gravitational pull that holds the whole tourist ecosystem of Cusco together. However, since you’ve made the effort to come this far, Cusco is also a gateway for everything else: cultural day trips, longer treks and climbs in the Andes, and even access to the Amazon rainforest, especially the Manu National Park area.
We spent six days in Cusco, in between different legs of our trip. Two days before our Andes trek (to acclimatize), two after the trek (to rest), and two more after our Amazon adventure (to reorganize and catch our flight back to Lima).
Was it fun? Yes, despite the crowds. Is it worth visiting Cusco? Absolutely. But it doesn’t really matter what I think, as you will have to go there anyway if you want to do anything at all in Peru.
Do you need to stay six days? Nope. A couple of days would be enough. But if you’re planning to fit in as many activities as we did, you’ll probably end up spending more time in this surprisingly chaotic city.
SALKANTAY TREK: MARVEL OF THE ANDES
The Salkantay Trek needs no introduction. It’s one of the best-known and most beautiful short treks in the world. The route winds around a 6,271-meter snow-capped peak of the same name and has the major advantage of being very close to Machu Picchu.
Most people organize the trek to start in Challacancha and end at the Hydroelectrica train station. From there, a short train ride takes you to Aguas Calientes, the unavoidable gateway to the famous archaeological site.
That’s exactly what we did as well. I won’t go into detail about how to organize the trek as there’s plenty of information online. Suffice it to say we completed it in four days and three nights, excluding the day spent visiting Machu Picchu, which isn’t technically part of the trek. We also did it without a guide, which is perfectly doable: there’s only one trail, so getting lost is nearly impossible, and there are so many people on the route that you can more or less just follow the flow. Just make sure to book your accommodations in advance.
We’re happy to recommend the three places we stayed as they’re probably the best options along the trail. Soraypampa Hostel: the perfect base for a detour to the spectacular Humantay Lake at 4,200 m. Salkantay Hostel Chaullay: ideal after a long day that includes crossing the 4,600 m. Salkantay Pass, with a lovely garden filled with hummingbirds during dinner and breakfast. Lia B&B Lucmabamba: a great place to discover a small coffee plantation and enjoy a coffee tasting with warm, welcoming hosts.
Does the Salkantay Trek live up to the hype? Yes, absolutely. Despite the crowds, it is a stunning stretch of the Andes, with snow-capped mountains, high-altitude lakes, rocky landscapes, and forested paths alive with hummingbirds. We loved it.
MACCHU PICCHU: THE MUST DO
Yes. That is the answer to the question: should you go to Machu Picchu? It is simply a unique historical site, unmissable if you’re visiting Peru. As mentioned earlier, it is the focal point of tourism in the country, and it is quite literally overrun all day, all year round.
Buses full of tourists go back and forth from Aguas Calientes to the entrance of the Machu Picchu site every five minutes. It’s a 15-minute twisty ride up the hill, or a 40- to 60-minute hike if you choose to do it on foot, as we did. Once there, crowds of people line up, waiting for their scheduled entry. It can feel overwhelming at first.
Thankfully, in recent years the authorities have put some order in place. You need to purchase your tickets in advance and choose both the type of visit and your entry time. We recommend getting the earliest possible slot to catch the best light, and possibly avoid the heaviest crowds. The timing is strict, so don’t be late or you may risk not getting in.
There are three different circuits to choose from, each following a one-way path. It’s also possible to buy tickets with optional add-ons. For example, we chose to climb Huayna Picchu, the highest peak accessible from the site, a steep, one-hour hike that rewards you with stunning panoramic views. There are shorter detour options too, for those less keen on the extra effort.
All in all, this system does a decent job of managing the crowds, and once you enter, that initial feeling of chaos disappears. You’re left to fully enjoy the majestic beauty of Machu Picchu and its incredible history.
Entering with a guide is strongly recommended. It will genuinely improve your experience and is well worth the extra money. If you haven’t booked one in advance, you can easily find a licensed guide at the entrance who speaks your language.
MANU NATIONAL PARK: JOY AND SORROW
Alright, there is a story here about tourist agencies lying about what they are selling and asking for way too much money for it. While in Cusco, before even going on the Salkantay trek and visiting Machu Picchu, we booked a 4-day, 3-night tour to the Manu National Park, part of the wider Amazon ecosystem.
We specifically looked for a tour focused on wildlife observation, with a small group, and one that skipped the typical tourist traps like zip-lining or river swimming, activities that feel more like fake adrenaline than real jungle exploration. We were well aware that we wouldn’t be entering the core Manu Reserve (which requires longer expeditions), but we had clear expectations for a meaningful experience in the Cultural Zone. We were also ready to pay extra for that.
After asking around, we booked with an agency called Machu Picchu Amazon Peru. The owner assured us the tour would meet our requests. But that’s not what happened.
Instead, we were sold off, without any notice, to another operator that specializes in low-cost tours: large groups, cookie-cutter itineraries, poor infrastructure, and a jungle guide who was both inexperienced and difficult to understand. During the tour, we discovered that everyone else had paid significantly less than we had. The original agency had simply resold us and pocketed the difference. When we confronted them, they refused a refund. Luckily, our payment provider sided with us, and we eventually got our money back.
As a seasoned traveler, falling for a scam like that was disappointing. But it happens, especially in a place like Cusco where mass tourism creates fertile ground for opportunistic behavior. In any case, visiting the Manu area without an organized tour isn’t really possible.
The journey itself is intense, about 10 hours by minibus from Cusco to a small river town, followed by a short boat ride to reach one of the so-called “jungle camps.” These camps vary in quality, but the issue isn’t the infrastructure. It’s that the tours are marketed as jungle expeditions when, in reality, they are nature tours with occasional wildlife sightings.
Some excursions are to semi-controlled environments, like rescue centers or bird-feeding areas, which can feel more staged than wild. Probably, for many people this is just fine, or even spectacular if they haven’t experienced anything similar. That would explain the high ratings for this type of tour operator and these tours.
That said, we did have a few lucky encounters with wild animals in the forest, and those moments were genuinely cool. Also, you do get to go on the river, walk trails in the jungle, and visit areas where you can spot many birds. This includes the famous Macaw clay licking site, although this is so far that it is almost boring to watch.
In the end, if expectations are set correctly and the tour is marketed honestly, a short visit to the Cultural Zone of Manu National Park can be enjoyable. You are immersed in beautiful, almost unspoiled nature, with the chant of the forest as a constant background. But being misled and overcharged spoiled the experience.
END OF THE JOURNEY
This was the end of our three-week journey through Peru. From Cusco, we flew back to Lima for one last night in Barranco before heading home.
Peru is without a doubt an incredible country to explore. In just three weeks, we managed to experience a striking variety of landscapes and activities: from the Pacific coast to the deserts, from the high peaks of the Andes to the edge of the Amazon rainforest. It’s rare to find a country with so many distinct ecosystems packed into one itinerary. Add to that a world-renowned food scene, and Peru becomes a must-visit destination.
If I were to change something, it would probably be our choice for the Amazon leg of the trip. Perhaps a different region, or simply a longer and more in-depth excursion, would have offered a more rewarding experience, but of course, that would have required more time and budget.
Overall, the country felt safe, and Peruvians were very welcoming. They didn’t necessarily embody the lively or exuberant stereotype often associated with South America; instead, they came across as more reserved, soft-spoken, and introspective, while still warm and kind, just in a quieter way. Of course, that’s just the impression left by a short visit. Next trip, Indonesia!
